Spa expert Barbara Close knows skin: The success of her New York spa, Naturopathica, and its eponymous botanical skin-care line attest to her devotion to skin therapy. In her new book, Pure Skin, Barbara offers information that is more than skin-deep; she details a holistic approach to skin-care including eating well, exercising, and stress-relief that will allow you to put your best face forward this year. In this excerpt, we help you find your skin personality as the first step to successful skin care.
In the late 1960s, a trend toward “scientific” skin care led to the introduction of the three skin types that we know today: normal, dry, and oily. This classification system went on to dominate the skin-care industry and changed how women looked at their skin. Even today, your skin type is determined by how much or little oil your skin produces, using the usual classification system:
Normal: medium-sized pores, smooth skin tone
Oily: enlarged pores, shiny skin, prone to blemishes
Dry: small pores, tight skin tone, some flaking
The reasoning behind this classification system is that by knowing your skin type you can better understand how to minimize irritation and help to correct problems.
Skin typing, while a useful topical diagnostic tool, is overly simplistic and does not tell the whole story of how or why the skin has become imbalanced. Oily or dry skin is the result of a systematic imbalance within the body and begs the question, what are the causative factors that have given rise to this condition? The cause may have multiple origins affecting mind, body, and spirit. Until the cause has been addressed, the condition cannot be effectively treated.
A holistic approach to well-being and beauty always looks at symptoms from an in-depth perspective, since symptoms are simply messages that the body is sending us. I prefer to call my classifications “skin personalities” instead of skin types because I think this more accurately reflects how our bodies, and in particular our skin as a living, communicating organ, work. Skin personalities can be broken down into five main groups.
A balanced skin personality is one in which the types of problems have a fairly narrow range and one that requires minimal attention. Over 75% of women fall into this category.
This personality is somewhat mercurial, its swings determined by the ebb and flow of hormones. This can be due to the normal course of a woman’s menstrual cycle or the onset of menopause. … Hormone-reactive skin tends to have enlarged pores and excessive oiliness and is prone to acne-related conditions. Stress Reactive Stress-reactive skin has an average pore size and moderate oil production (mainly in the T zone) but is highly sensitive to lifestyle factors such as lack of sleep, poor diet, and a stressful schedule.
Changes in temperature, sunlight, humidity, and allergens in the environment all have a direct effect on the clarity of the skin. … Environment reactive skin has an average pore size and moderate oil production but can display symptoms such as dermatitis, dry and flaky skin, and rashes due to changes in the environment.
The mature skin personality has a thinner epithelial layer, lacks moisture, and shows facial lines and wrinkles as well as sun damage.
We all know it’s important to stick to a skin-care regimen — cleansing, exfoliating, toning, and moisturizing. Pure Skin offers great tips and recipes for each skin personality to ensure proper care. But it also offers ways to get healthy skin from the inside out with skin fitness, herbal remedies, diet and living a less stressful lifestyle. Here, the author suggests a Special RX and Skin-Care Express steps to augment daily skin care for your skin personality.
Boost skin with a reviving face mask once a week to brighten complexion.
Incorporate a facial massage in your regimen twice a month to stimulate circulation and give the skin a healthy glow.
Begin each day with a lavender compress to boost circulation. Add an effervescent vitamin powder to water and drink to bolster the immune system during stressful periods.
Get a holistic deep-cleansing facial a minimum of four times a year.
Do not over wash skin. This causes oil glands to overcompensate and produce more oil. Do not pop pimples. But since you are going to do this anyway, here’s how: gently squeeze pimple with clean hands wrapped in cotton or tissues. Sweep away debris an dab with tea tree oil. Do not touch! A green tea mask will kill bacteria that causes blemishes. Skin-care Express: Mist face with an antiseptic hydrolat (moisturizing toner of an essential oil base) throughout the day to keep skin free of bacteria. Schedule monthly facials to help control acne flare-ups.
Avoid hot showers and baths when skin is irritated. Try to bathe once a day in cool water and as quickly as possible so as not to strip the body of precious oil. Apply a thick moisturizing cream immediately after patting yourself dry. Look for skin-soothers in creams or balms, such as aloe vera gel, calendula, oatmeal, and burdock, to calm irritated skin.
Sleep is the best antidote for skin problems caused by stress. Don’t let anything interfere with your getting the minimum of eight hours your body needs. Stick to a regular sleep schedule during stressful times.
If your skin becomes irritated frequently, buy a ph test kit at your drug store to determine the acidity of your body. If your level of acidity is too high, avoid acid-forming foods, which create skin disturbances such as rashes, hives, and intense itching.
Fortify your skin with extra omega-3 fatty acids during especially stressful times — eat salmon or other oily fish and sprinkle flaxseed on salads. Mist face with a calming toner throughout the day (try keeping it in the refrigerator for added cooling and calming action). Make a lavender compress and apply to face as needed to soothe irritated skin. Get a holistic deep-cleansing facial four times a year and book a professional massage once a month during stressful periods.
Purchase a neti pot, also called a nasal irrigation vessel, from a health food store. Fill with warm water and add 1 drop of tea tree oil or 1/2 teaspoon sea salt. Irrigate sinuses once a day. Rid your home of environmental pollutants: use organic cotton bed sheets, install an air purifier, change showerheads to a filtered attachment, use filtered water for cooking and drinking, and use environmentally friendly household cleaning products.
Buy a humidifier for your bedroom to let your skin recharge with eight hours of moisture every night. Be sure to clean the filter regularly and add a calming essential oil to the water to help you relax. Avoid products containing alpha hydroxy acids (ahas) and beta hydroxy Acids (bhas), which can cause additional irritation to skin.
Fortify your skin with extra omega-3 fatty acids during especially stressful times — eat salmon or other oily fish and sprinkle flaxseed on salads. Mist face with a calming toner throughout the day (try keeping it in the refrigerator for added cooling and calming action). Make a lavender compress and apply to face as needed to soothe irritated skin.
Older skin needs constant nourishment. Always carry a hydrolat and a small container of a replenishment cream to recharge the skin throughout the day. Buy a humidifier for your bedroom to let your skin recharge with eight hours of moisture every night. Be sure to clean the filter regularly and add a calming essential oil to the water to help you relax. Face oils penetrate the skin deeper than most creams do and for older skin these are a must. Select a face oil or serum fortified with essential fatty acids to plump up your skin, and do a facial massage once a week.
Compresses are relaxing moist-heat treatments that increase local circulation to improve dull facial complexion. Fill the bathroom sink with warm water. Add 2 or 3 drops of lavender essential oil and swish water around to disperse the oil. Soak a washcloth in water, wring out, and apply to face. Inhale deeply to receive relaxing benefits.
Barbara Close is a practicing well being advisor And founder and president of a full-service holistic spa and botanical skin-care line, Naturopathica, headquartered in East Hampton, New York (naturopathica.com). She is also the author of Well-Being and The Spa Deck. Her books are available in bookstores and online at amazon.com and bn.com.Excerpted from Pure Skin: Organic Beauty Basics (2005: Chronicle Books). Used by permission.
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